@ Pilgart Explores

 #### Where to go. Where to stay. What to eat and what to do If you clicked on this Ecuador travel guide expecting to read about the Galapagos Islands, well then I’m sorry to disappoint you!\ This is my exclusive travel guide to Ecuador. Whilst The Galapagos Island are a magical, no doubt. Ecuador has so much more to offer. That is what this travel guide is all about. It’s about the hidden gems- Where to go. Where to stay. What to eat and what to do, and one place to skip- This is Ecuador According to Pilgart Explores. #### Quito Quito, one of my favourite capital cities of South America. In my book it’s right up there with Buenos Aires and Santiago. Buenos Aires feels very European. Santiago has an American feel to it. Quito… Well Quito feels like proper South American, it has a similarity to Cuzco, just bigger and more developed. I think it is that perfectly balanced mix of Incan and Spanish influence. The historic centre with it’s buildings that tell so many stories, as they roll up and down the Andean foothills, through the valley in which Quito sits. Surrounded by towering mountains, inviting me to go out and explore what they have to say. #### Where to stay - The budget option - Centro, cheap hotel or hostel You will be close to the historic centre with all the touristy things nearby, at night it’s a different story though. At night the historic centre is pretty dead, the zombies come out and you don’t want to be strolling around late in the evening. - The unique - La Floresta neighbourhood I booked an AirBnB in La Floresta, a local middle class area, located just south of Quito’s top neighbourhood El Batan, as well as within walking distance to the historic centre. La Floresta itself had a few small hip cafes & restaurants and plenty of shops for me stock up, on everything I needed for cooking at my AirBnB. I will highly recommend staying in La Floresta. - The top-tier - El Batan neighbourhood El Betan is Quito’s top neighbourhood. This is where you wanna stay, if you have the budget. The area is packed with all the best restaurants in Quito, The best parks of Quito and it’s easy to get to the city centre from El Batan. #### What to eat- and where - The budget option - [Corvina - Found at most street restaurants](https://youtu.be/gwOY0k14vjA?si=7DsVPQINpWNlDEph) If you like Fish and Chips then you will like this. Corvina can best be described as Ecuador’s version of Fish and Chips. Pieces of battered fried fish served with chips, rice and a hearty lentil stew, to mix with the rice. You will find Corvina at most street restaurants, as part of a cheap $3.5 lunch menu or as a stand alone dish. Corvina is one of Ecuador’s National dishes, it will get you full for cheap and set you up nicely for a days worth of exploring in Quito. - The unique - [Horneado - Eat at Mercado Santa Clara](https://youtu.be/P5wmS5CzZeM?si=-nqyh5YxbndtPJIR) This beautiful whole pig, slow roasted over night in the oven giving the skin a satisfying crunch and making the meat juicy and tender. Horneado is the absolute best bang-for-ya-buck food I ate in Ecuador. As you enter Mercado Santa Clara, head to the food court and find Galo- Galo will be easy to find with the massive whole roasted pig lying on his work desk. You will pay $4 for a generous serving of the softest, juiciest pork meat you have ever had, served with a creamy sautéed mashed potato. Galo preparing Horneado - The top-tier - Somos Ecuador Restaurante Somos Ecuador; a high end restaurant serving innovative takes on all Ecuador’s favourites. From Ceviche and Seafood casseroles to roast pork and stunning stews- A dinner at Somos Ecuador will set you up, just perfect before you leave the city, heading out into the rest of Ecuador. Here you will get the complete tour of Ecuador’s diverse kitchen and flavours. Put it on your list. #### What to do - The budget option - [Local markets: Mercado- Santa Clara, Central, El Tejar](https://youtu.be/P5wmS5CzZeM?si=-nqyh5YxbndtPJIR) One thing I always love to do, no matter where I am, is to explore the markets. I’m not talking about the artisan markets, I’m talking about the local everyday markets. It’s the smells of the local produce for sale, the women yelling their prices out the top of their lungs, as if some sort unspoken announcer-competition is going on. It’s the overwhelming noise of conversations in indigenous languages I don’t understand. A random shop blasting some loud horrendous reggaeton music- I’ve never understood that as a sales tactic, I’ve always found myself turning away from such shops ASAP. Most of all, the local markets are all about the food and the understanding of local culture. I can spend hours strolling round a market, observing the way people interact, what words are they using? How is the body language? What are the topics of conversation? What is the fashion like? Answers are presented in overload- all I have to do is open my eyes and observe.\ Best of all, this is a free, forever repeatable experience. - The unique option - Mitad del Mundo The monument that marks the Equator line, runs just north of Quito. It is easy to get there, just head to Terminal La Ofelia, a smaller bus station in the north of the city. From here you can catch a bus to Mitad del Mundo- The middle of the earth. It takes about 30-40 minutes to get there. The monument and science/history park around it, is extremely well done. I spent a couple hours here learning about Ecuador’s history, indigenous people and I had lots of fun playing around with all the science installations. In the interactive science museum you can try your hand at a handful of fun, interactive gravity games, making the science of magnetics field and gravity come to life. It’s well worth a visit.  The Equator line, Mitad del Mundo - The explorer option - [The deep south of Quito](https://youtu.be/J5ZliW4wCc0?si=b8bOdgPwzwTgId9j) Get in an Uber, head for the neighbourhoods in the south of Quito. The locals will tell you “Don’t go there!”. Sure enough the Uber driver did look twice at me, when he pulled up, expecting to pick up a local. He asked, confirming that I hadn’t messed up my locations, “if I was sure I wanted to go to the south?” “Of course” I said. The deep south of Quito is yet another example of why I leave the Lonely Planet on the bookshelf. Because it is experiences that lay beyond the realm of Lonely Planet guide books, which allows me to understand and connect with a country. In this case Ecuador. The Lonely Planet guide books won’t tell you to head to the south of Quito, for anything but reaching the southern bus station. Yet, as I step out my Uber, I quickly head to a local market, where I’m met by the loveliest people. A mother calls me over. She offers me her daughter. I laugh. I buy us all an ice cream, before I take a seat at the negotiation table, only to tell them I’m already taken. The feeling of genuinely great people sits with me, as I leave the little, Centro Comercial Chiriyacu behind. I head into the streets. The streets in the south of Quito are different, they are industrial, full of people hustling. I need to watch out where I step, as I’m weaving my way, between fruit vendors setting up shop in the middle of the side walk. Every few blocks there’s a small simple restaurant or a street food vendor, providing snacks, I don’t look at the map, there’s no need, I just follow my instincts and walk. Contrary to what I was told, I had great day in the south of Quito. Picking up some exotic fruits and vegetables, eating some random street food, talking to the locals, getting a peak into the real, non-polished side of Quito life. #### Village Life by Lake Quilotoa The extinct Quilotoa volcano is a highlight of any journey through Ecuador, but there is another side to Quilotoa. A side few know about. A side that provides a glimpse into the real life, up here, tucked in between the Andean mountains. I met Cesar the owner of a family run boutique hotel, located in the indigenous villages on the slopes of the Quilotoa volcano. I jumped at the opportunity, when Cesar offered to host me for few days, at the his hotel and give me a tour of the Volcano, go swimming in the lake, at the bottom of the crater and see the real life of these indigenous villages. ##### \ Where to stay - The budget option - You can stay in an accommodation in the little tourist town of Quilotoa, on the crest of the volcano, with all the other tourists. There are plenty of options in the little town, non of them looked particularly special in any way, but it’s easy to get to. - The top-tier - [Hosteria Juyende](https://www.hosteriajuyendequilotoa.com/): A rustic, wooden cabin-like family run hotel, with a stunning view to the surrounding mountains. Located just below the crest of the Quilotoa volcano. You either ge to Hosteria Juyende by car or you take a bus to Quilotoa town, from where you hike to the breathtaking viewpoint; Mirador de Cristal Shalalá. From the viewpoint simply walk down through the little shopping area, set up by the Shalalá Community- consider supporting their crafts, I bought the poncho which I’m wearing in the video I made in whilst staying at Hosteria Juyende, do check out the video of the hotel and the walk around the crater [here](https://youtu.be/nocD412_Wx8?si=Zb_0BkbEK9XNDI64). Once you have checked out the shops, you will continue down the little road for another 10-15 minutes and Hosteria Juyende will be on your left. Hosteria Juyende, Comunidad Shalalá, Quilotoa #### What to eat- and where Cuy or Guinea Pig is a delicacy in the Ecuadorian Andean mountains. I had the pleasure of preparing Guinea Pig over fire, with Cesar and his family. In the morning I helped collecting the firewood, before heading off, to walk the Quilotoa Crater Loop. When I came back in the afternoon, Cesar had the fire going. I quickly sat down on the benches surrounding the fireplace. Before I knew it, I was handed a stick with Guinea Pig pierced to the end. Here I sat in the middle of the majestic Andean mountains, drinking some warm home-brew alcoholic punch-like drink called Canelazo. We continued to turn the guinea pig and sip our drink. The guinea pig itself is stuffed with Andean herbs, prepared till the skin is crunchy, then served with potatoes. The taste can best be described ,as something akin to rabbit, as you can imagine there isn’t much meat on the little fella. The taste is good though. Especially with some Canelazo- that stuff is dangerous. Preparing Guinea Pig [Leave a comment](https://pilgartexplores.substack.com/p/my-exclusive-travel-guide-to-ecuador/comments) #### What to do - Walk the Quilotoa Crater Circuit, 3800masl, 10,3km, 4-5hr The Quilotoa volcano is extinct with an enchanting turquoise lagoon at the bottom of the crater. The day hike around the crater circuit is quite literally breathtaking. The breathtaking views are constant- be warned your camera reel is going to get full. Besides that, the hike is not for the faint of heart, at various points you’ll find yourself walking along the rim of the crater, on a trail no wider than a couple meters, with a huge drop to either side. Do approach with caution, if you suffer from vertigo. That being said you will not regret completing the circuit. It is one of the best day hikes I’ve done in anywhere in the Andes. There is even the option of hiking down to the beach by lake at the bottom or camping at a few campsites along the crater rim. Quilotoa Crater Circuit - [Explore the Shalalá villages](https://youtu.be/h5DctuAGNw4?si=2hHL8_oOWJfI8D5p) When you are staying at Hosteria Juyende, make sure to explore the villages of Shalalá and Ponce, this will give you an authentic glimpse into indigenous village life in Ecuador. These communities are agricultural villages, so you will see plenty of llamas and alpacas around. If you are lucky you might even be invited to play a game volleyball. Village Life in Ecuador As dusk was falling over the village, Cesar wanted to show me the most popular sport around here, volleyball. A group of lads were getting ready to play as we pulled up, the mist was falling in the air, it was cold. The ball was a heavy futsal ball, getting increasingly wet from the mist, making it feel like I was getting punched in the forearms every time I responded a serve, but I couldn’t loose face here. I ate the stinging pain. Check out my video from the villages [here](https://youtu.be/h5DctuAGNw4?si=3hByALiUPRpoJc2q): You can watch our game of volleyball at the end. - [Visit the farmers market in Zumbahua](https://youtu.be/gqbCg4oSEwE?si=PR-gxgpEM3mMPdjw) Once a week on Saturday morning Zumbahua comes allive, farmers from near and far flock the town. Zumbahua is located on the highway which connects Quito and the Andes, with the Pacific coast and main port city, Guayaquil. And let me tell you it is one hell of a farmers market. People here are buying and selling llamas, sheep, pigs and fruit and veg by the truckload. Pigs are screaming as they get manhandled and sold. Sheep are shitting all over the floor- so don’t wear your beautiful shoes. Once you make it to the food hall, you can indulge yourself in anything from goat head soup to beef served with mashed potatoes and eggs. Once you’re done, you head back outside to wash you breakfast down, with a few shots of sugar cane alcohol. Then you head for your siesta. It is unlike any other market I have ever seen! This is one of those experiences that will stay with me forever. The weekly farmers market in the nearby town of Zumbahua was our last activity in the area around Quilotoa- check out my video [here](https://youtu.be/gqbCg4oSEwE?si=smPDe_nlJz7RAwSe). Zumbahua Farmers Market #### [San Jose de Morona - The Gateway to the Amazon Jungle](http://san%20jose%20de%20morona%20-%20the%20gateway%20to%20the%20amazon%20jungle/) ##### How to get there From Ambato/Baños or from Cuenca you get a bus to Sucua. Once in Sucua, a small town on the north-south Amazon Highway, you get another bus to Puerto Morona/San Jose de Morona. I had an overnight stay in Sucua, before continuing on towards San Jose de Morona. You don’t need to stop over in Sucua. Once you reach San Jose de Morona, that’s when the adventure begins. Images from the road to San Jose de Morona I stayed in two nights in San Jose de Morona, at a basic accmmodation called Hostal Monteverde. It was nothing fancy, but it was the only option in town. I spend the following day mingling with the locals, trying to figure out how to get to my actual destination; Antuni. An indigenous Community about 5 hours up river, in a typical motor driven jungle canoe. I had been tipped off about the existence of a lodge in Antuni, I was determined to make it. I wanted to know what indigenous village life is like, deep in the Amazon. So here is how to get to Antuni. (Watch my experience of getting to and staying in San Jose de Morona right [here](https://youtu.be/w5As1f2TdZc?si=1r_OV2zORkmnIaZd)) #### [Deep in The Amazon - Living With Amazon Tribes](https://youtu.be/E4f6SuzQxIQ?si=8FaXF_mb4dj4lKX0) The next morning, I stood ready by the roadside, outside my accommodation in San Jose de Morona. Waiting for a pick up truck to come by- that’s the bus in these areas. I hoped on the back, as I stood there on the back of a pick up truck, with the wind in my hair, I was filled with excitement for the adventure I was about to embark on. I was about to go 5 hours up river, into the deep heart of the Ecuadorean Amazon, to live 3 days as a part of an indigenous tribe village. As we reached the little harbour Puerto Kashpaimi, I tapped the side of the car to signal to the driver to stop. The river was high, the water racing with a raging pace, carrying tree trunks down stream, as it’s passengers. The day before, I had arranged to meet my boat driver here at the little harbour in Puerto Kashpaimi, he was going to steer us safely past all the tree trunks to his community, Antuni. As we reached Antuni I was shown to the community lodge. I of course needed to pay a fee for staying in the community lodge. I negotiated a fee of 15 dollars a day. On top of that, I payed an extra 5 dollars for a load of bananas of yuca, a sort of sweet potato like root, as well as some eggs. If you decide to follow in my footsteps, make sure to bring your own food supplies, the little lodge has a basic jungle kitchen with a gas stove, for guests to cook their own food. I stupidly hadn’t thought this far. Do not make the same mistake. I had arrived fairly unnoticed, so they weren’t prepared for my visit. On the way to Antuni, the lodge with it's shower #### [Life Deep in The Amazon](https://youtu.be/E4f6SuzQxIQ?si=8FaXF_mb4dj4lKX0) During my time in the Antuni, I was part taking in village life. I went net-fishing with down by the river. I was thoroughly schooled by two little kids, they can’t have been more than 6-8 years old, but they had the technique on lockdown. They were way better than me, at this game of fishing. I went back, up the river bank, to the village. The men were sitting around the eternal fireplace drinking chicha, the local home-brew alcoholic beverage. The chica is made from yuca, the women chew the yuca into small pieces, then spit it into a big clay pot, where they proceed to grind the yuca till it reaches a soft, mashed potato like texture. Then they add some water and boil it for 40 minutes to an hour. Then set the chicha aside and let the fermentation take place. The result is a drink with an almost yoghurt like texture, the taste is a strong fermented taste. As I sit and drink the chicha with the men, the two young boys come back from the river, with the days catch. The village dogs greet the two boys and follow them to the kitchen, hoping to get a bite- so do I. In the kitchen a woman is preparing the two fish the young boys caught, one Boca Chica and one Raspa. The fish are wrapped in banana leaves seasoned with salt and a version of garlic native to the Amazon, a leaf that when cut, has the same taste as a garlic clove. Out here in the jungle they have everything at hand. ##### What to eat - We had two different fish, Boca Chica and Raspa. Preparation goes like this: Wrap a fish in banana leaves, stick it right in the middle of the fire, wait 20 minutes till the outer leaves are burnt, take the fish out of the fire, open the leaves and devour the most beautiful fish. Serve with steamed plantain and home made chilli sauce. ##### What to do - Take one of the locals as your guide and head for a jungle walk. This is one the most magical experiences on this planet. You will see spiders, insects and all other animals in shapes, colours and sizes, you can’t even imagine. If you are lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of Jaguar or Puma strolling by. The sounds of the Amazon are at times deafening, the jungle is so thick that you can’t see much further than 5 meters ahead, everything looks identically green- make sure to stay within hearing distance of your guide, or you will get lost, walking in circles. The locals have an almost superpower like skillset, in the middle of this blanket of animal noise, they can pick out each sound. A few moments later they point up to the canopy, at group of monkeys jumping around. How these guys are able to pick out the sound of one specific animal, with 100% accuracy is still beyond me, I’m not sure they are human… #### Guayaquil - Ecuador’s Worst City Guayaquil Ecuador’s main harbour city, sitting surrounded by mangroves on the pacific coast. Chances are you will have to come here, on your trip through Ecuador. Guayaquil is the hub for travellers heading to the Galapagos Islands. Guayaquil has in the last few years been caught in an escalating gang war. A war about controlling the drug market in the city. Guayaquil also serves as hub for Colombian cocaine, making it’s way to the United States. A lucrative market to control. When I was in Guayaquil, the Ecuadorian president had placed the city in a curfew. The streets had to cleared by 8pm, if you had circulate, you had to catch a taxi, preying that the gangs roaming the streets at night, would leave you alone. Watch my video exploring Guayaquil [here](https://youtu.be/oxgU-Mo3jIA?si=d6TH48hqw2VRLr6x). My suggestion to you is: Don’t go to Guayaquil, unless you are going to The Galapagos Islands. Instead continue further up the coast, to a small beach town called Puerto Lopez. #### Puerto Lopez Puerto Lopez is a quaint fishing village and beach town on the coast. Boasting a peaceful beach with plenty of small beach restaurants and bars to hang out at, whilst you spend your day sipping on Piña Coladas and swimming in the ocean. Playa Puerto Lopez ##### What to eat- and where - The budget option - Encebollado - Eat at small beachfront restaurants Head out of town in a tuktuk towards Machalilla. Take a stop at the shack that speaks to you, the most. Take a seat. Enjoy the view. Order yourself an Encebollado- A delicious unpretentious Ecuadorean fish soup, that you can find in most of Ecuador, but the coast line is it’s home region. This is where you’ll eat the original Encebollado. - The unique - Cazuela de Mariscos - Eat at Romance Marino Imagine Paella meats Fish Soup meets tropical coconut milk- Ahh splendid. That’s exactly what I thought, when I first triad Cazuela de Mariscos. It is the soft and creamy texture from the coconut milk & peanut paste, the achiote spice that gives the casserole a kick up it’s arse, sprinkled with fresh lime juice and coriander as it’s served. This is Ecuador’s best seafood dish by far, and what a dish it is. Enjoy with a cold beer. - The top-tier - Grilled Squid - Eat at Sabor Español Grilled squid is one of my favourite dishes in the entire world. It is simple and unpretentious. It is hard to prepare right, if you cook it too long the squid becomes rubbery and chewy. On the other hand, if you nail it, it is like eating a white wine and garlic infused butter. In Puerto Lopez there is place called, Sabor Español, they know how to do Grilled Squid. Freshly caught in the morning and bought at the local fish market. In the evening thrown on the grill, prepared to perfection with Garlic and White wine. Enjoy with jug of sangria. ##### What to do - The budget option - The Morning Fish Market Get up at sunrise, walk to the south side of the beach. Here you will find the fish market. This is fish market is the main daily event in Puerto Lopez. The locals flock here to buy, freshly caught seafood. Be warned you will also see some heartbreaking images, for at the fish market, sharks are brought in, only to have their fins cut off. Who buys them? Well you guessed it, the Chinese. The shark fins are purchased by local businessmen, who resell them on to the Chinese in Guayaquil. In China, shark fin soup is said boost ones libido, cure cancer and most of all show of wealth and hospitality to special guests. Puerto Lopez Fish Market - The explorer - Playa Salango If you are like me, you love a wild beach with big waves. Unfortunately the Puerto Lopez beach is a calm and quiet beach. Fortunately, the next town south of Puerto Lopez has wild beaches, en masse. You get on a bus from Puerto Lopez to Salango Beach. From Salango beach you head around the cove, walk down the wild beach front. After about a 30 minute walk, you will reach a more secluded beach with a bunch of small restaurants serving all Ecuador’s classics, and of course they have beers, ice cold beers to enjoy after your walk along the beach front. There you have it, that is Ecuador according to Pilgart Explores. I told you it wasn’t going to be your average Lonely Planet-like travel guide. No, I have been to all these places and can personally sign of on them, as the greatest locations to visit in Ecuador- According to me, of course. By all means, do visit some of the more touristy places, such as Cuenca, Vilcabamba and Baños. But make sure to leave the beaten path and head of for some real authentic adventure. Pilgart Explores style. \ I hope I convinced you to put Ecuador on your list. Leave a comment down below if I inspired you to go to Ecuador. All I know for sure is, that I will be back.